Introduction

As beauty brands increasingly demand biologically informed skincare, contract manufacturers face a key challenge: how to integrate real biological insight into formulation decisions without increasing development timelines or manufacturing complexity.

Traditionally, microbiome science is introduced late in the development cycle, validating finished products rather than informing formulation decisions.

COSMAX wanted to explore a different approach: can microbiome intelligence become an input early in R&D without slowing development or increasing industrial complexity?

Many clients recognize that the skin microbiome space still lacks global standards and clear regulatory guidelines. In this context, the COSMAX–HelloBiome project is often viewed as a step toward establishing future reference standards. – Byungjoo Lee, CEO of COSMAX BTI

Bringing Microbiome Intelligence into Formulation Design

COSMAX partnered with HelloBiome to integrate microbiome intelligence directly into the formulation process.

Using microbiome analysis across 900 consumers, HelloBiome identified biological differences between healthy and inflamed skin, including microbial markers linked to sensitivity and barrier disruption.

COSMAX translated these insights into formulation strategy by selecting two proprietary postbiotic actives: AMBIOTER™ and FILLERSTIN™.

The approach extended into product design, resulting in a three-step regimen — cleanser, serum, and mist — developed to support microbiome stability while addressing sensitivity and barrier function.

There is now a clear shared perception that the skin microbiome plays a beneficial role in maintaining healthy skin. Many brand partners are exploring ways to integrate this concept into product development. – Byungjoo Lee, CEO of COSMAX BTI

The Proof: Performance Without Compromise

A common assumption in skincare formulation is that efficacy and microbiome compatibility cannot coexist. This collaboration demonstrated the opposite.

Results showed the formulas delivered 25% sebum reduction with improved radiance while maintaining microbiome stability. Demonstrating that high-performance skincare and microbiome respect can coexist in scalable formulations.

Conclusion

By integrating microbiome intelligence upstream in R&D, COSMAX transformed microbiome science from a validation step into a core formulation input.

This approach enables biologically aligned formulations without increasing development complexity or manufacturing constraints.

At COSMAX, microbiome analysis has become an essential starting point for formulation design. The scientific rationale often becomes the foundation of our partners’ product narratives. – Dong-Geol Lee, Vice President (Lab Leader), Microbiome Lab, COSMAX BTI